The Habulous Blog

We love handmade things especially when you can see the making process, however sometimes there are imperfections which mean some pieces don’t make it through our quality checks. On these occasions the items become seconds. Although we love some of these unique quirks on our pieces, it isn’t always to everyone’s taste.

In ceramics, there are specific types of flaws. The pieces are still functional, they just won’t look as perfect as we’d like. The seconds we choose to sell are ones where the piece is still fit for purpose, watertight and food safe.

Glaze Breaks

If a glaze is too thick or doesn’t take to the clay body, the glaze can run off the surface, leaving the clay exposed beneath. This tends to be common when the glaze is slightly too runny. As the clay body seals when fired, the piece is still fine to use. Some of our perfect pieces will have small glaze breaks as we love this effect, but when these breaks are big we class them as a second.

 

Thin Glaze

Similarly to glaze breaks, when a glaze is too runny or the piece is not in the glaze for long enough, the glaze is thinner than usual. In the glazes we use, this can lead to a loss of the colour’s opaqueness.

 

Glaze Drips

When a thicker layer of glaze is applied it can drip during the firing process - this is more common in our Shoreline range as the glaze mixture is slightly thicker. This is a cosmetic effect and does not affect the functionality of a piece.

 

Pinholing

This term refers to small bubbles in the surface of a glazed piece that look like tiny pinholes. This can be caused by small grains of dust prior to glazing or by gasses escaping the glaze or clay body. Pieces with this on internal glaze are no longer food safe, however any external pinholes aren’t an issue.

 

Cratering

Foreign objects in the clay can burn and release gas in the kiln which leaves a crater-like hole in the glaze.

 

Crazing

A network of hairline fractures in the glaze body on the piece. This is sometimes a deliberate cosmetic effect used in ceramics - but not in our designs. This is caused by the glaze being under too much tension and contracting more than the clay body of the piece during cooling.

 

Hairline Fractures

A fine crack, typically on the base of the piece, which is often a result of the base being a different thickness to the walls. If the crack does not go through the base, we test the piece for watertightness (no leakage) with boiling water before deeming it usable.

 

Warping

When in its softest stage, being knocked or moved too much can change the shape of a piece. This can usually be corrected but is sometimes made worse in the kiln. Warping can also happen to a perfect piece during the firing. These pieces are still functional, if a little quirky!

Sometimes, flaws can be caused by us making errors - we’re only human! For example, we could be glazing a batch of pots and accidentally miss one, or apply the wrong glaze colour.

When hand-making ceramics there is a natural difference in size between pieces, so when a piece exceeds this normal variation we sell it on as a second. Additionally, in some cases when we’ve accidentally knocked off a mug handle, for example, instead of discarding the entire piece we would turn it into a planter. This just means that the piece doesn’t match our general mug size or design, so instead of wasting the work we also sell it on as a second.

PLEASE NOTE: Your plant will show you whether it is happy or not, the suggested care for each plant is just a guideline. Your plant's care will vary based on the environment of your home.

This blogpost is to help you get to know your air plant and learn some important and interesting facts about its nature and how best to care for it. At the bottom of this page, there is a video showing air plant general care, stringing and care prior to gifting.

Typically, air plants are fairly low maintenance. In terms of watering, they generally should be soaked (preferably in rainwater, although tap water is fine) every month for around an hour. Alternatively, misting the plant every 1-2 weeks is also viable, just make sure the plant doesn’t feel too dry or look like it’s losing its colour. It is essential the plant is left to fully dry before being strung back inside the ceramic jellyfish head to prevent any rot.

‘Tillandsia’ - the name that precedes each specific air plant - is the genus of mainly epiphytic plants (a plant that typically grows on another plant) of the pineapple family, native to tropical and subtropical America.

 

AIR PLANT CARE

Please find your air plant below for its specific care. Please note, if your air plant is blooming, avoid getting the flower wet during watering.

Tillandsia ‘Caput (Medusae)’

Our products that include Caput: Turquoise Jellyfish Air Plant, Stone Jellyfish Air Plant, Caput Air Plant

Size: The Caput sizes range from medium to large. (Approximate dimensions) Medium: W2cm x H11cm. Large: W3cm x H15cm.

Appearance: Large bulb with thick, velvety, rigid, long light green-silver tendrils. The tendrils are snake-like, hence the Medusa(e) name. During blooming, the Caput produces tubular blue-red flowers.

Nature: Native to South America, mainly Mexico, Guatemala, El Salvador, Honduras.

Care: The Caput variety of air plant prefers bright-mild sunlight with ideally humid surroundings with good air circulation. Misting every fortnight is recommended - if your Caput is dehydrated, the tendrils will become very curly - this is usually a sign that it needs watering. Since the bulb is hollow, soak only the tendrils (ideally once a month).

Tillandsia ‘Ionantha’ / ‘Ionantha Rubra’

Our products that include Ionantha: Turquoise Jellyfish Air Plant, Stone Jellyfish Air Plant, Strawberry Air Plant Vase, Carrot Air Plant Vase, Beetroot Air Plant Vase, Whale Air Plant Vase, Ionantha Air Plant

Size: The Ionantha has small, medium and large variations. (Approximate dimensions) Small: W2.5cm x H4cm. Medium: W3.5cm x H6.5cm. Large: W4.5cm x 8cm.

Appearance: Typically green tendrils, sometimes with a frosty silvery base. The Rubra variation has more noticeable pink/red tips. The base tendrils are sometimes looser - these can either be gently peeled off or left (this is sometimes an indication the plant is about to produce an offshoot). When blooming, the Ionantha produces a purple shoot tipped with a small white/yellow flower in the centre of the plant.

Nature: Native to Mexico, Costa Rica and parts of South America.

Care: The Ionantha variety of air plant is fairly low maintenance. It loves sunlight, so it’s best to keep yours in a bright spot (but out of direct sunlight) with good air circulation. They should be misted with water or air plant care spray weekly. Keep the plant upside down so excess water can run off the tendrils. If you are an owner of one of our ceramic jellyfish air plants, the Ionantha can be misted whilst hanging in the shell. Ideally run under water for a few minutes once a month, and if it is looking and feeling especially dry, soak the plant for around 10 minutes. If your plant propogates, gently remove the baby when it is half the size of the parent plant.

Tillandsia 'Juncifolia'

Our products that include Juncifolia: Turquoise Jellyfish Air Plant, Stone Jellyfish Air Plant, Juncifolia Air Plant

Size: The Juncifolia air plant ranges from medium to large sizes. (Approximate dimensions) Medium: W2.5cm x H16cm. Large: W3cm x 20cm.

Appearance: Grass-like, long rigid tendrils that are sometimes tipped with a deep red or brown colour. The latin name 'junceus' refers to something that is 'reeded', hence the natural long grass-like appearance of the Juncifolia.

Nature: Originally from Guatemala and parts of South America. It is a slow growing air plant that during blooming produces a royal purple flower.

Care: The Juncifolia likes bright but indirect sunlight with an ideally humid environment and good air circulation. Soaking the plant upside down (so only the tendrils get wet and not the bulb) for at least 10 minutes weekly is recommended. If the plant looks like it needs more care, add a light misting with water or air plant care spray once a week also. Browning around the bulb is natural, and a good way to tell if the Juncifolia is healthy is by gently peeling back a tendril and seeing whether the base of the bulb has a shine to it. Any outer tendrils that brown and dry can be gently peeled off.

Tillandsia 'Capitata Peach'

Our product that includes Capitata Peach: Pineapple Air Plant Vase

Size: The Capitata peach ranges from small to medium sizes, usually determined by the length of the tendrils. (Approximate dimensions) W10-12cm x H8cm.

Appearance: The Capitata Peach typically has green leaves at a younger stage and silver velvety leaves at a more mature stage. These turn a peach colour when the plant is in bloom. It tends to grow amongst trees, but has also been found growing on cliff faces and canyons. When in bloom, it produces a green/yellow inflorescence with multiple purple flowers.

Nature: Native to Guatemala, the Dominican Republic, Cuba, Honduras and Mexico.

Care: Capitata Peach are low maintenance air plants. In order to thrive, these plants need a humid environment such as a bathroom or a kitchen for optimal results. Misting is recommended every few weeks. Capitata dislike overwatering, therefore do not soak these air plants. Rainwater is ideal, and shake off any excess water from the leaves.

Tillandsia 'Filifolia'

Our products that include Filifolia: Whale Air Plant Vase, Orange Air Plant Vase

Appearance: Long, thin, thread-like green tendrils with a dark brown base/bulb. Varies in size from medium to large. During bloom it produces

Nature: Native to Central Mexico and Costa Rica.

Care: Moderate humidity, ideally a bathroom environment. Mist with water 3 times weekly, allow to dry. Soak for an hour (ideally in rainwater) monthly, and allow the plant to thoroughly dry before putting it back on display.

Tillandsia ‘Argentea’

Size: The Argentea sizes range from small to medium, but with a wide spread of tendrils. (Approximate dimensions) Small: W8cm(tendrils)/W1.5cm(bulb) x H5cm. Medium: W10cm(tendrils)/W2cm(bulb) x H6cm.

Appearance: Very lightweight, spiky, thin green-silver leaves. The Argentea is naturally quite dry and feels delicate, however it holds its shape very well. During blooming, the central spike of the plant grows funnel-shaped flowers that come in a variety of colours (typically purple, blue and red).

Nature: Native to and typically grows in dry areas of Mexico, Guatemala, Cuba and Jamaica, and mostly grows on rocks and trees.

Care: Bright environment (out of direct sunlight), preferably humid with good air circulation. They should be misted with water weekly. Soak for an hour (ideally in rainwater) monthly, and allow the plant to thoroughly dry before putting it back on display.

Tillandsia ‘Pruinosa’

Size: The Pruinosa has small to medium variations in size. (Approximate dimensions) W2.5cm x H8cm - W3.5cm x H10cm.

Appearance: Large bulb with velvety tendrils that varies in colour from maroon to green. The brown base colour of the bulb is not indicative of an unhealthy plant, but it is actually due to the plants being in direct sunlight (which they like).The plant is usually larger during blooming and produces a pink bulb which sometimes emits purple flowers.

Nature: Native to Florida, Central America and South America. Sadly, in Florida, the Pruinosa is now considered an endangered plant due to insect damage and habitat destruction, and therefore its production is carefully monitored and they are typically rarer to source.

Care: This type of air plant prefers partial shade with good air circulation. Should be misted every couple of weeks.

Tillandsia ‘Balbisiana’

Size: The Balbisiana sizes range from medium to large. (Approximate dimensions) Medium: W2.5cm x H18cm. Large: W3cm x H22cm.

Appearance: Grass-like, multiple long green leaves that have a tendency to curl. When blooming, it emits a long red/yellow inflorescence that produces purple flowers.

Nature: Native to Mexico, Central America, Venezuela, Colombia, West Indies and Florida. Typically found growing on trees in swamp areas. Sadly, similarly to the Pruinosa, it is considered a threatened species in Florida due to habitat destruction.

Care: The Balbisiana air plant can withstand direct sunlight, although still best to give it filtered exposure. A weekly misting is recommended.

For air plant general care, stringing and care prior to gifting, please watch our video below.

It’s becoming more important and more essential to be eco-friendly. And, at Christmas time, we unfortunately tend to stray from our eco-friendly ways as we get wrapped up in the gifting frenzy. So how can we be more environmentally conscientious? Here are some quick and useful tips we’d like to share.

Firstly, we should try and step away from buying gifts that are mass-produced. Mass-produced products generally involve processes that use more power and methods which are fast-producing as this is more economically beneficial, but often in turn sacrificing the environmental aspect. At Habulous we would like to encourage moving away from a throwaway society - so when we use the term 'mass-produced' in this particular context, it refers to products that don't serve a long-term and sustainable purpose. We consider our ceramics as pieces that will last a lifetime, due to their functional and durable design which is all carefully made by hand. The act of gift-giving should be meaningful and thoughtful, not just for the sake of it.

Being a small, independent, handmade brand, we take pride in being as eco-conscious as possible: we recycle our clay so that even the little scraps get saved; reusing all sorts of materials such as packaging and anything that can be used in our making processes (we actually use old credit cards for shaping some of our ceramics!). All our packaging is recyclable and our products are designed to be long-lasting and lovable.

Small businesses like ourselves put more time and care into our work because it is our living and we care about our customers. Not to mention, an unusual gift from a little brand is definitely more special than something that is made by the thousands, wouldn’t you agree?

As for present wrapping, this is where paper waste becomes astronomical this time of year. Avoid using glitter or foil wrapping paper - this is typically unrecyclable and bad for the environment. There are numerous other ways you can still make your gifts look attractive, such as using newspaper, parcel paper, or even fabric adorned with string or ribbon that can then be reused too. Investing in biodegradable paper tape is also a great alternative for sticky tape, and can actually look a lot smarter. This interesting way of wrapping will not only look chic, but it’ll save you having to spend ages hoovering up all that glitter!

Other simple things that we may forget are items like Christmas crackers (you can buy eco-friendly ones), and the food you eat - is it locally produced? Is it free range? Although this might all seem like a lot to consider, it’s definitely worth taking even a few steps towards being eco-friendly so we can look after our planet in any way we can.

We hope you have a very Merry Christmas!

With love,

The Habulous Team x

Being completely new to clay, I’ve learnt a great deal from Nicky, as well as my own experimentation and exploration in the studio. We tend to think of a much more simplistic process in which artists create their work; for example, potters simply shape some clay on a throwing wheel, decorate it and fire it and tah-dah, you have a bowl. It was a misconception I had before starting at Habulous. There are actually a great number of careful, technical and detailed processes that go into making a ceramic piece. I myself sell my paintings and similarly have always found it frustrating when people don’t realise how much work is put into my artwork. However, this is also because it probably isn’t discussed enough to inform people. We only see the final outcome as a buyer or viewer, so we don’t realise or sometimes understand the length of processes behind the work.

So, when learning and actually making some ceramic pieces in the studio, I realised I too hadn’t been aware of the makings in this particular field of art. For example, Nicky taught me the fundamentals of clay before making the pieces to be sold on the Habulous shop: how it reacts with water, the different stages of drying, the different levels of kiln firing and how it can be manipulated. I initially thought you simply got the clay and made it into a shape, but I have now learnt you have to always be aware of how fast its drying to prevent it from being too hard to work with, and equally how moisture can either make it far too malleable to work with or how a simple damp sponge can help shape and smooth it. I’ve learnt that the texture of clay has a lot to do with the types of working you can do to and with it. 

What I also didn’t know is that we fire the pieces a couple of times. The first firing, which is usually done at the lower temperatures, is known as ‘bisque’ (which actually means biscuit which I liked). This makes the clay hard and unaffected by moisture, but still brittle. Next, we glaze the pieces. The glazes we use tend to have matte, pastel appearances, which to my awe completely transform when fired for a final time at the higher temperatures, producing much more solid and vibrant colours, as well as movements. After the final firing, pieces are much more sturdy, however obviously still breakable if knocked or dropped (which we’ve unfortunately experienced a few times in the studio!).

Although I’m yet to learn throwing on the wheel - something I’ve been told takes years of practice - I have still learnt a lot from observing. Throwing is definitely not as simple as plonking down a bit of clay and magically moulding it into the perfect shape in a matter of minutes. Each piece goes through a variety of shapes and heights until being formed into the desired piece. And even then, they have to be as similar as possible in size, weight, diameter etc for it to be saleable - it’s a lot of work!

So far, I have been learning how to hand-pinch pots (which as you might’ve seen already are in fact the heads of our very popular hanging jellyfish air plants), as well as individually cutting out, smoothing, glazing and lustering our small ceramic jewellery pieces (the photo above shows a sneak peak of my new designs using Nicky's glazes), and carving soap dishes. Although great fun to do from a creative aspect, I’m still trying to master timings and accept that artwork, especially when you are intending to sell it, sometimes has to be viewed from an efficient and methodical point of view, but equally remaining mindful of how we want our pieces to be unique.

For the past few months in the studio we’ve been working on some unique mini jellyfish pinch pot air plant hangings - which you may have spotted in our shops! This has been a long, thought-out process for our Habulous team, playing around with shapes, designs and sizes until we discovered what worked best. We wanted to creat a unique, quirky product that nodded towards our love for nature, and how important houseplants have been during recent times with brightening up our living spaces.

Ellie, who joined the Habulous studio mid-June, feels a great sense of pride in being a part of creating one of our most popular and fun pieces. Every step of the way has consisted of hand-making, not to mention becoming a part of a new and exciting working environment, learning about clay and the endless creative possibilities.

In terms of the making process, although the pieces may initially appear relatively simple, there are actually several making steps the Habulous team have to work through until we create these unique final products. First, the jellyfish ‘heads’ are hand-pinched out of stoneware clay, then left to dry. This drying process can take a day or two, depending on how warm the weather is (which isn’t often in England!). Once they are dry, they are individually placed into the kiln and then bisque-fired. Once this initial process is complete, each pot is hand-illustrated with vertical lines in underglaze pencil, before being dipped in our own unique turquoise glaze and then put back in the kiln for a final firing. The combination of hand-drawn lines and glaze creates a beautiful, watery-like movement on each jellyfish. Once cooled, each piece is individually hand-tied for hanging and ready to gently secure the air plant inside.

At Habulous, we aim to avoid the manufactured, mass-produced look that so many products tend to have nowadays, which is why we love these little pieces so much. Every ceramic pot and every plant is completely unique as they are both entirely hand-produced. And, for us, there is something very special about the feel and thought behind a handmade product: the texture, the passed-on teachings and skill of creating each element.

These Jellyfish Air Plants would make the perfect gift for a loved one or even to yourself, ideal for hanging in any room (although a humid bathroom would be ideal for the plant!). They bring a unique splash of colour and style to our indoor spaces, perfect for cheering us up. Definitely something to add to the plant collection, don’t you think?